Piercing: Vertical labret

Written for Medical Realities by Getter Rob on September 12, 2025

Vertical Lip Piercing Basics

A vertical lip piercing (aka a vertical labret piercing) runs straight through the center of your lower lip and exits just under it. It sits fully outside the mouth, so it’s super visible compared to other oral piercings. Heads-up: lips are loaded with nerve endings, so this one can sting more than a lobe or helix. Always book with a licensed pro who uses sterile, single-use needles and sealed jewelry.

What the Appointment Looks Like

Your piercer will mark two points—one on the lip, one just below it—clean the area, and pass a needle vertically through your bottom lip. You’ll feel a quick, sharp pinch followed by a warm throb. Most studios start you with a slightly longer curved barbell to leave room for piercing swelling. Ask to see sterilization indicators and make sure they open the jewelry bag in front of you.

Jewelry That Plays Nice With Skin

For first jewelry, stick to implant-grade titanium body jewelry (ASTM F-136) or solid 14k–18k gold. High-quality surgical steel can work for some, but people sensitive to nickel should avoid it. Acrylic is light but not ideal long-term. Once you’re healed, you can swap styles, but keep the diameter and shape your piercer recommends so the angle of a vertical labret piercing stays comfy.

How It Can Affect Your Health

Even in a spotless studio, your lip lives a messy life—food, drinks, makeup, and a lot of touching. Possible bumps in the road:

  • Rejection or migration: Your body may try to push the jewelry out, especially if sizing or angle is off.
  • Allergic reactions: Nickel (and sometimes chromium) can trigger dermatitis. That’s why titanium or real gold is the safer bet.
  • Scarring: Irritation bumps or thicker scar tissue can develop, especially if you twist or overclean.
  • Swelling and soreness: A few days is normal. If it’s ballooning, hot, and getting worse after a week, call your piercer or a clinician.

Vertical Lip Piercing Infections

Mouth bacteria are no joke. Signs of an oral piercing infection include heat, throbbing pain, thick yellow/green discharge, bad taste/odor, fever, or the skin looking shiny and tight. Don’t remove the jewelry on your own—closing the hole can trap the infection. Reach your piercer or an urgent care; they’ll guide next steps.

Day-to-Day Aftercare That Actually Works

Think “clean and hands-off.” This is the vibe for lip piercing aftercare:

  • Rinse gently with sterile saline or alcohol-free mouth rinse after meals and before bed for the first 2–4 weeks.
  • Outside skin: twice daily, spray or soak with sterile saline; pat dry with clean gauze. No alcohol, peroxide, or ointments.
  • Don’t twist, flip, or “check if it’s stuck.” Movement = irritation.
  • Skip spicy, acidic, and super-hot foods for a few days; use a straw if helpful.
  • No smoking or vaping if you can help it; both slow healing.
  • Avoid kissing and oral contact until your piercer says you’re in the clear.
  • Change pillowcases often; keep makeup and balms away from the entry/exit.

Healing time is usually 8–12 weeks on the outside and longer for full tissue strength. Book a downsize appointment once swelling drops so the bar isn’t catching on teeth or pulling on skin.

Who Should Hit Pause

Consider waiting—or choosing a different spot—if you:

  • Have uncontrolled diabetes or an immune condition that slows healing
  • Are prone to keloids or heavy scarring
  • Have active cold sores or cracked lips
  • Can’t avoid nicotine for the first couple of weeks
  • React to nickel (choose titanium/gold only)

If you’re on blood thinners or have a bleeding disorder, talk to your healthcare provider first.

Quick Troubleshooting

  • Irritation bump: Usually friction or overcleaning. Downsize the bar when told, switch to saline-only care, and stop touching.
  • Chipping teeth or gum irritation: The bar may be too long or the angle off. See your piercer to adjust jewelry length/shape.
  • Persistent redness or heat: Treat it like a possible infection and get professional advice fast.

Good-to-Know Extras

  • Sun and wind can chap a fresh piercing—use a plain, unscented balm around (not on) the holes if your piercer okays it.
  • Gyms and pools: avoid for at least the first couple of weeks; pools/hot tubs are high risk for bacteria.
  • Keep a spare labret post on hand once healed; losing jewelry overnight can let the hole shrink fast.
Rank (Popularity)Material (Implant-Grade When Noted)Common Starter Jewelry for Vertical LabretAllergy/Nickel RiskDurability & CorrosionWeight on LipFinish / Color OptionsTypical U.S. Price (single piece)ProsConsBest For
1Titanium (ASTM F-136 / ISO 5832-3)Curved barbell (threadless or internally threaded)Very low (nickel-free)Excellent; doesn’t tarnishUltra-lightPolished, anodized colors (gold, rose, blue, etc.)$20–$50Gold standard for new piercings; light, hypoallergenic, tons of colorsSlightly pricier than steelAnyone, especially sensitive skin or first-time piercings
214k–18k Solid Gold (nickel-free alloy)Curved barbell, ends/charmsLow–moderate (depends on alloy; choose nickel-free)Very good; won’t rustLightYellow/white/rose; high-end look$120–$350+Premium look, biocompatible if nickel-free, great long-termExpensive; soft metal can scratch; avoid cheap “gold-filled/plated”Healed piercings, special occasions, luxury wear
3Surgical Stainless Steel (Implant grade 316LVM)Curved barbellModerate (trace nickel)Very goodHeavier than TiMirror polish; fewer color options$10–$30Affordable, widely available, sturdy threadsCan irritate nickel-sensitive folks; heavierNon-sensitive wearers, budget setups (not ideal for fresh if nickel-reactive)
4NiobiumCurved barbell, decorative endsVery low (nickel-free)Excellent; similar to TiLightAnodized spectrum colors$25–$60Hypoallergenic, great colors, easy to shapeFewer brands/styles than titanium; slightly pricier than steelSensitive skin wanting bright colors
5PTFE / Bioplast (medical-grade)Flexible curved barbell (labret post style)Very lowGood in body fluids; not metalFeather-lightClear/black; limited finishes$8–$20Flexes with lip movement; comfy for swelling or dental concernsThreads can wear; not as durable or precise as metalsTemporary wear during swelling, dental-friendly use
6PlatinumCurved barbell, endsVery lowExceptional; inertHeavy (but small pieces ok)Bright white luster$300–$800+Highest biocompatibility and prestige; won’t tarnishVery expensive; heavy; limited availabilityHealed piercings seeking ultra-premium, metal sensitivities
7Acrylic (PMMA)Curved barbell, ends/ballsLow (no nickel)Fair; can crack/scratchUltra-lightMany colors, glows, novelties$3–$12Cheap, light, fun colors for short stintsNot for fresh piercings; micro-scratches harbor bacteria; not autoclavableShort-term wear only in fully healed piercings, novelty looks

Notes & buying tips (U.S. market):

  • For fresh vertical labret piercings, most pros recommend implant-grade titanium with a slightly longer curved barbell to accommodate swelling; downsize after 2–4 weeks per your piercer.
  • If choosing gold, look for solid 14k–18k, nickel-free; avoid gold-plated, gold-filled, or vermeil for initial wear.
  • “Surgical steel” varies—aim for ASTM F138/ISO 5832-1; skip if you have nickel sensitivity.
  • Threadless (push-fit) or internally threaded jewelry reduces tissue irritation versus external threads.
  • Typical U.S. studio pricing includes sterilization and pro fitting; online pieces can be cheaper but verify material certifications.

Vertical Labret Infections: What to Watch For

A lip piercing lives in the splash zone—food, drinks, makeup, and everyday mouth bacteria all hang out there. That’s why a vertical labret needs tight hygiene from day one.

How to spot an infection

Thick or yellow/green discharge, heat, swelling that isn’t going down, spreading redness, burning or sharp pain, or sudden tenderness/itching are classic infection signs. On lighter skin it may look bright red; on darker skin it can appear deeper or dusky. A little clear/whitish crust early on is normal; worsening symptoms aren’t.

Don’t yank the jewelry—call a pro

If you think it’s infected, leave the jewelry in so the channel doesn’t seal bacteria inside. Reach out to your piercer or doctor—sometimes antibiotics are needed, especially with fever, red streaking, or escalating pain.

Smart ways to dodge infection

  • Book with a licensed, experienced piercer who uses sterile, single-use needles and implant-grade metals like titanium.
  • Hands off unless you’re cleaning—wash first.
  • Clean the outside twice daily with sterile saline; inside the mouth, rinse gently with alcohol-free mouth rinse or plain saline after meals.
  • Soften crusts (warm saline compress), then wipe—never twist dry jewelry.
  • Skip oral sex, deep kissing, and spicy/acidic foods while healing.
  • Avoid alcohol-based mouthwashes—they’re too harsh for fresh tissue.

Vertical Labret Aftercare: Daily Playbook

Most vertical labrets take 6–8 weeks to settle, but healing varies by anatomy and lifestyle. Swelling in the first 48–72 hours is common; your piercer likely fitted a slightly longer curved bar to allow for that, then downsizes once swelling fades. 

Clean routine (outside + inside)

  • Cleaning: Use a sterile saline solution to clean the piercing twice a day. You can also use a non-alcoholic mouthwash to keep the rest of your mouth clean.
  • Avoid: During healing, refrain from touching the piercing with dirty hands, swimming in public water, and applying cosmetics like lipstick or chapstick to the area.
  • Oral contact: Avoid kissing and oral sex during the healing process to prevent introducing bacteria.
  • Eating and drinking: Be careful when eating and chewing. Avoid spicy, acidic, or very hot foods that can irritate the piercing. 
  • Outside (twice daily): Wash hands → saline soak/compress 3–5 minutes → pat dry with clean gauze.
  • Inside (after meals): Swish with alcohol-free mouth rinse or mild saline.
  • Don’t spin or twist the jewelry when dry; micro-tears invite bacteria.
  • Keep fabrics off it (beanies, towels, pillowcases). Change pillowcases often; avoid makeup on the site.
  • No pools, hot tubs, or lake swims until fully healed.

Who Should Hit Pause on a Vertical Lip Piercing

Consider waiting or getting medical advice first if you’re:

  • Pregnant
  • Immunocompromised
  • Prone to keloids
  • Dealing with active eczema/dermatitis around the mouth
  • Sensitive to pressure (dermographism)
  • In contact/ball sports during the healing window

If you still want the look, discuss timing, low-profile ends, and mouthguards with a pro. Choosing implant-grade titanium and sticking to solid aftercare lowers risk.

Quick Gear Notes (for smoother healing)

  • Start with a curved barbell in implant-grade titanium (nickel-free, lightweight).
  • Use internally threaded or threadless posts to reduce snagging.
  • Downsize the bar (with your piercer) once swelling drops to cut friction and accidental biting.

Vertical Labret (Vertical Lip) — FAQ for the U.S.

What exactly is a vertical labret?

A vertical labret is a lip piercing that goes through the middle of your lower lip and exits just below it. Both ends stay outside the mouth, usually fitted with a curved barbell.

How much does it hurt?

It’s spicier than a lobe and many nose piercings—lots of nerve endings around the mouth. Most folks describe a sharp pinch and pressure for a second, then a warm throb for a few hours.

What’s the healing time like?

Average healing is about 6–8 weeks, but anatomy and aftercare can push it shorter or longer. Expect early swelling; your piercer may downsize the bar once that settles.

Best jewelry to start with?

Start with a curved barbell in implant-grade titanium (lightweight, nickel-free). Internally threaded or threadless posts snag less and feel smoother during cleaning.

Can I get a ring right away?

Hold off. Rings move more and can irritate fresh tissue. Switch later—after a full heal—if your piercer signs off.

What’s normal vs. not normal during healing?

Normal: mild swelling, tenderness, a little redness (or darker tone on deeper skin), and light clear/whitish crust.

Not normal: hot, spreading redness, thick yellow/green discharge, fever, red streaks, or pain that ramps up—call your piercer or doctor.

How do I clean a vertical labret?

Twice daily: wash hands → warm sterile saline compress 3–5 minutes → gently pat dry with clean gauze. Inside the mouth, rinse after meals with alcohol-free mouth rinse or saline.

What should I avoid while it heals?

Skip oral sex, deep kissing, alcohol-based mouthwash, spicy/acidic foods early on, pools/hot tubs/lakes, and touching or twisting the jewelry when dry.

Is infection common with vertical lip piercings?

Lip piercings see more bacteria (food, drinks, makeup), so risk is higher than some placements. Good hygiene and leaving jewelry in if you suspect infection are key. See a clinician if symptoms escalate.

Will it affect eating or talking?

Day one or two, you’ll notice swelling and be a bit careful with bites and sips. Most people adjust quickly—small bites, slow sips, and a straw can help early on.

Any risks to my teeth or gums?

Because both ends sit outside the mouth, dental risk is lower than inner-mouth piercings. Still, avoid long ends and downsize on time to prevent snagging or lip irritation.

Who shouldn’t get a vertical labret?

Press pause if you’re pregnant, immunocompromised, prone to keloids, have active dermatitis around the mouth, or play contact sports without a plan for protection.

How much does a vertical labret cost in the U.S.?

Typical shop fees run $50–$120 for the service, plus $20–$80+ for implant-grade jewelry. Big-city studios trend higher; always prioritize cleanliness and credentials.

How do I pick a safe studio and piercer?

Look for a licensed studio, single-use sterile needles, autoclave logs, and clear aftercare. A good piercer discusses jewelry materials, anatomy, and downsizing before you sit.

When can I change jewelry or downsize?

Your piercer will usually downsize once swelling drops—often around weeks 2–4. Full style changes typically wait until you’re fully healed.

Can I wear makeup or use skincare near it?

Keep makeup, foundation, and strong actives (retinoids/acids) away from the site until fully healed. If a product touches it, rinse with saline.

What about work, gym, or sports?

Desk jobs are fine next day. For gym: wipe equipment, avoid contact drills, and cover gently with a breathable dressing if you must. Contact sports—wait until healed or use a mouthguard strategy.

Could my body reject the piercing?

It’s uncommon but possible. Signs include the jewelry migrating toward the surface and thinning skin over the top ball. See your piercer early if you notice movement.

Any tips to reduce swelling and irritation?

Cold compresses (wrapped ice, short intervals), sleeping slightly elevated, and avoiding salty/spicy foods for a few days help. Downsize on time to cut friction.

How visible is scarring if I retire it?

Most people see a tiny dot below the lip and a faint mark on the lip itself. Earlier retirement usually heals more discreetly; massage with a simple, fragrance-free moisturizer after it closes can help.

What jewelry styles look best once healed?

Fan favorites include sleek curved barbells with minimalist ends, tiny opal or diamond-cut tops, and (after full heal) delicate rings for a softer look.

Any food or drink rules?

Hydrate well, keep meals mild for a few days, and rinse after eating. Avoid alcohol early—it dries tissue and can sting—and skip smoking/vaping if you can while healing.

When should I see a doctor instead of my piercer?

Fever, chills, severe swelling that blocks speech/eating, rapidly spreading redness, pus with odor, or pain that keeps escalating—seek medical care promptly.

Medical content creator and editor focused on providing accurate, practical, and up-to-date health information. Areas of expertise include cancer symptoms, diagnostic markers, vitamin deficiencies, chronic pain, gut health, and preventive care. All articles are based on credible medical sources and regularly reviewed to reflect current clinical guidelines.